Routes

So after sending my boulder project last weekend I decided to take a few days off from bouldering and rope up. I've been going to the NRG for about 6 years now and never really had any luck on the sharp end of a rope. I think its mainly because I would get so mad at myself for falling off moves that I know I could do if I wasnt pumped out of my mind. As a boulderer I have the power and hand strength to do the V7/V8 boulder problems on a 5.13 pitch. but by the time I climbed 50 feet though some pumpy climbing I couldnt hold on to a jug to save my life none the less pull through a boulder problem. So i decided to take a different approach and not expect to go out and do hard moves but go out get on classic routes and just fight the pump. This past week was a struggle for me mentaly, I got on some classic NRG 5.10s and 5.11s. I had to force myself to take rests, look for handjams, and try to conserve energy. All things, that when I'm bouldering aren't even in the back of my mind. Day one was disapointing. I was climbing 5.10s and getting so pumped that my forearms were actually hurting. After a few days of dialing in my route climbing techniques I was able to start onsighting 5.11s.  I can see why climbers who route climb love it so much, the hight, the exposure, being completely alone 80 feet up. When I was tied in, however many feet up, I felt alone. It was quiet, and i could think clearly. It was a great escape from the real world with all the people and bullshit. Its just you up there and you can do whatever you want to. But bouldering for me is social,  its more about the good times and hanging out with friends all day looking for climbing that is at your limits. I think that when you are bouldering the people who are there are just as involved as the climber, cheering, spotting and talking shit to your friend as he mantles like a gumby. So route climbing for me is an escape, but bouldering is my life. More  boulder updates to come.

Projects fall in feb

  So this past weekend Two of my projects at hawks nest dam went.   After a total of about 25 days working and cleaning it I was able to snag the first ascent of the black pocket project. The  'black pocket'    was the longest standing boulder project at the New River Gorge and maybe even in West Virginia. The problem is a straight line of pockets up a steep black face with pretty much no feet. It has eluded alot of climbers in the past. Black pocket was the most condition dependent problem I have ever tried to project. It sits inside a dam where water levels varie from day to day. If its too warm you cant hold on the the river polished sandstone , but on the other hand if  the temps are right it usually means  its snowing.  On the day it went i was feeling really good and temps were amazing. I spent the better part of my morning sitting in my harness brushing about 6 inches of snow off the top and drying the holds. I had never stuck the huge move to the lip but on the first attempt saterday I was able to hit the sweet spot and pause for a breif second, I knew it was going to go after that. Two tries later i was shouting from the top in disbelief. I couldnt belive it went. Here is the raw footage. its not the best ,my new camera is on the way.

Another one of my HawksNest project went this weekend. I stopped at this blunt arete that I have walked by hundreds of times and started chalking up holds. From the sit start there is a very low percentage move off a really bad left hand crimp to a really good right hand. I had about 6 days wrapped up in the problem so I was really stoked when I was able to get the FA on it. I called it brass knuckles. Heres a pic.

The Move

I recently to move to the new river gorge about 1 months ago. Ive been trying to make it happen for about 6 years and i got tired of waiting. I just decided that now was as good a time as any. The move went pretty smooth all in all . Its funny you tell people your moving to the West Virginia and they look at you like your crazy. They dont understand. The New River Gorge is one of the most beautiful places on earth, that alone sucks you in, then you add friendly locals and amazing rock climbing on top of that. I mean really what more do you need? This blog is main focus is to show everyone what this place has to offer as far a rock climbing. It will be the most up to date news on NRG bouldering.