Routes

So after sending my boulder project last weekend I decided to take a few days off from bouldering and rope up. I've been going to the NRG for about 6 years now and never really had any luck on the sharp end of a rope. I think its mainly because I would get so mad at myself for falling off moves that I know I could do if I wasnt pumped out of my mind. As a boulderer I have the power and hand strength to do the V7/V8 boulder problems on a 5.13 pitch. but by the time I climbed 50 feet though some pumpy climbing I couldnt hold on to a jug to save my life none the less pull through a boulder problem. So i decided to take a different approach and not expect to go out and do hard moves but go out get on classic routes and just fight the pump. This past week was a struggle for me mentaly, I got on some classic NRG 5.10s and 5.11s. I had to force myself to take rests, look for handjams, and try to conserve energy. All things, that when I'm bouldering aren't even in the back of my mind. Day one was disapointing. I was climbing 5.10s and getting so pumped that my forearms were actually hurting. After a few days of dialing in my route climbing techniques I was able to start onsighting 5.11s.  I can see why climbers who route climb love it so much, the hight, the exposure, being completely alone 80 feet up. When I was tied in, however many feet up, I felt alone. It was quiet, and i could think clearly. It was a great escape from the real world with all the people and bullshit. Its just you up there and you can do whatever you want to. But bouldering for me is social,  its more about the good times and hanging out with friends all day looking for climbing that is at your limits. I think that when you are bouldering the people who are there are just as involved as the climber, cheering, spotting and talking shit to your friend as he mantles like a gumby. So route climbing for me is an escape, but bouldering is my life. More  boulder updates to come.