My name is Nic Spruill, I live less then a mile from the New River Gorge in Fayetteville WV. I have been climbing almost 10 years here at the New. Most of my climbing life i have spent climbing on boulders here in WV and through out the Southeast. The New River Gorge hides some of the best sand stone boulder I have ever seen. The past two years I have really foused on finding New lines and developing New areas.

Sunday, May 22, 2011

Rendevous High balls fall

So this past weekend at the New River Gorge Was the annual New River Rendevous. I took the entire week before off so that i could help with the set up show some people around, and finish off some long time projects. On wed the 18 i went out to the substation boulders to try and get the fa on my year long boulder project The Rambo Rabbit Project. HEREs a link to a video of me working this line last winter
www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/dpm-project-series-rambo-rabbit. This project was shown to be by some local boulders last january. The first time i saw it i knew that this line was something that had to be done. The project starts on a short lived vert face with some techy moves for me. You a long move out to the lip of this small roof onto a 15 foot long 35 degree overhung wall, then you mantle the lip and climb another 15 feet of easy slab. This boulder is about 30 feet tall but has about 35 to 40 feet of climbing. Well with the comp only a few days away and strong climbing comming to the area i felt the pressure to send. After refining my beta i was about to stick the crux and do the last dyno to the jug. sticking that jug at the lip for me was a life changing moment. When i grabbed that victory hold i felt like i weighted 3 pounds. I pulled the lip onto the wet slab and took my sweet time summiting the massive boulder.I found out that a local climber found this boulder years ago and was calling the line The Beauty Mountain Beat down. I decided that the beauty mtn beat down was a more suitable name, I didnt know what to rate it because its the hardest problem i felt ive done. The day of the comp ABS crusher Alex David Johnson was at the substation to go for the second ascent of the line. He made pretty quick work of it saying that it is one of the best and hardest boulder he has climbed, Giving it the grade of v11/12. Later that day Ryan Banister was able to get the third ascent and though the line to be v11. While at the substation Alex was also able to snag the second ascent of a ridiculous v10 roof dyno that was also a brand new line put up a few day before the comp by John McCauley. After that Alex had is mind set on trying  for the first ascent of the Cardiac Arrest project, he quickly sent and called the line the heart breaker, V10. Also in New bouldering news at the new South East crusher Nate Draughn was able to get a wet Third ascent of a Joel Brady v10 test piece called Fayettevilles Finest. I also made pretty quick work of a high ball project at the cotton bottom boulders. What did you do last week and why werent you at the New River Rendevous.
the video below is the two high ball problems i put up last week enjoy

No comments:

Post a Comment